My layering technique is 1-2-3 easy.
STEP 1: BARK
Tip contents of bark packet in first to cover the bottom.
This provides aeration to the roots while also retaining moisture .
STEP 2A: SOIL
Use about half the soil to cover the bark and push around the sides.
STEP 2B: PLANT
Remove plant from the bag and place on top of the soil. Position the root ball in the center, the top of the root ball (or base of the stem = same thing) should be a quarter to half an inch lower than the rim. Adjust as necessary, then fill loosely with remaining soil, (there may be extra).
Gently push and tuck the soil down around sides until soil level is at the stem base leaving a 1/4 inch space for mulch (I use my fingers, but if you need a 'tool'- a stick from the mulch packet is good for that) .
STEP 3: MULCH
Go ahead and pick up a pinchful of mulch and place around the edges on top of the soil. Press firmly and downward around the edge to tuck in the soil in the top 1/4 inch. This reserves the space needed to collect and absorb water while providing a matrix to retain the soil during the dunk method of watering.
CONTINUE TO NEXT SECTION BELOW FOR DEMO ON HOW TO CREATE A ROOTER POT
NOW THAT MY COCO POT IS PLANTED UP, TO HANG IS JUST A MATTER OF PULLING THE CURLED UNDER PART OF THE COPPER WIRE UPWARDS UNTIL IT IS STRAIGHT USING TWO HANDS.
TO RETURN TO THE STAND POSITION:
USE ONE HAND TO GRASP THE BODY OF MY COCO POT BY THE SIDE LOOPS AND HOLD STEADY AS THE OTHER HAND GRASPS THE WIRE HANDLE.
NEXT, USE A WRAPPING MOVEMENT DOWNWARDS AS IF TO CURL COMPLETELY AROUND AS CLOSE TO THE COCONUT BODY AS POSSIBLE.
RE-ADJUST THE GRASP OF THE HAND HOLDING MY COCO POT TO THE MID-PORTION OF THE WIRE AGAINST THE BODY FIRMLY.
THEN BEND THE END LOOP OF THE HANDLE FLAT UNTIL MY COCO POT RESTS IN A BALANCED POSITION. THE LOOP MAY NEED TO BE ALMOST AS WIDE AS THE COCO POT BODY TO AVOID A ROLL OVER.
NOT AN EXACT SCIENCE, BUT I HOPE YOU GET THE IDEA WITH A LITTLE PRACTICE. YOU MAY ALSO USE AN EMPTY CUP TO SET IT ON.
TWIST OR BEND THE WIRE TO ADD A FANCY FLARE, IT CAN ALWAYS BE RETURNED TO THE ORIGINAL POSITION.
OVER TIME, THE AREAS THAT ARE MOST AFFECTED IN THE STRETCHING OR BENDING PROCESS MAY START TO WEAR AWAY THE CLEAR FINISH AND ALLOW PATINA TO FORM.
THE SAME IS TRUE FOR THE PATINA FINISH AS IT IS AN 'APPLIED' FINISH AND MAY LIFT OFF IN AREAS BENT RIGOROUSLY.
Basicly, there are 2 ways to introduce water and that is either from the top or from the bottom.
My preferred method is the dunk method because it does both! This way I know that the soil is saturated and good for a few days. So I base my watering in terms of how many dunks per week. The Quick Dunk Guide is located on the Recommendations page.
THE DUNK METHOD:
Fill a gallon sized container with water and place in water using a little pressure to hold under water level. You will see bubbles forced out and when they stop it will be saturated. When watered regularly, a dunk will take about a minute. It is ok to let soak longer, no problem. I prefer to dunk and run. Since the handle keeps the pot upright, it is fine to lay in the water and let it fill by itself. Then come back shortly to retrieve. Should a piece break off, it is ok poke it right back in the soil and it will re-root. If a week goes by without water, the soil may be very dry and need a few more minutes to soak. The pot will sink when it is completely saturated.
Hold under a stream of water from the hose or tap fixture slowly until the water is running out of the drainage holes. This may take several minutes to fully soak. Good for between- dunks.
For continued care, I like to put a small amount of plant food in the dunk water after a few months time. About every 4 weeks, give plants a boost of plant food in the dunk bath- or other applications may be granular or spike forms. A water spritz also helps maintain the moisture in the top mulch which in turn keeps the soil moist for the surface roots.
Set up a work surface